The second half of my Portugal/Spain trip was in Santiago de Compostela. It was a major pilgrimage site for Medieval Catholics, and thus on my list of places to hit during my personal renaissance. Ideally I would have done some part of the pilgrimage myself, but the opportunity presented itself at the last minute and I wasn’t about to pass it up.
The last part is some of the most poignant writing that I've yet read on Substack.
I wish you'd write about death more. The way you put it is real, and somehow comforting.